A past history

Posted by William Leiva Perez On Tuesday, October 12, 2010 1 comentarios
Almost 5 years ago, I went to Pichilemu with some friends to have a party. It was mid October and the weekend was really cold.
In the party, I met a cousin friend and he mention that was a professional surfer. I said to myself "cool, must be really nice to ride waves" and after a few beers, he invite me to surf the morning after. So I left my beer and went to bed.

Next morning, at 6 AM, I was trying to wear a wetsuit, a wetboats and walking to the water, cover with mist and fog, so I couldn't see anything beyond 5 meters. I could only hear the waves breaking.
After a few jumble (when the wave break over you and makes you go straight to the bottom), I was having a lot of fun.
Suddenly, I realize that I was getting freeze and I was really tired. When I was taking of my wetsuit, I realize that I had spend more than 4 hours in the water, "but just trying to keep my head over the sea level".

I always liked the water sport, the sea, swimming. But this was like nothing I ever tried. A few months later, I bought my first surfboard and a wetsuit. Since then, I go at least twice a months, and I always take vacation in some place where I can bring my surfboards with me.

1 comentarios to A past history

  1. says:

    mchacon Dear William, here are my corrections:
    I met a cousin's friend (possessive), he invited me....(In English we quote with one apostrophe not doble)..wetboots (right?)...suddenly,I realised I was freezing not getting freeze or I was frozing or getting very cold!...taking off my wetsuit, I realised that I had spent more than....I have always liked water sports in the sea, such as swimming, but this was nothing compared to what I had ever tried..... twice a month....my surfboard with me, unless you have more than one!
    Very nice story, well written and you kept the reader wanting to stay reading! That's the idea for your writings. Aim well accomplished! Review these mistakes for you not to make them again!

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